• In a Word--Housebroken.
  With most family members gone during the work week for 8 hours or more, housetraining a puppy and its small bladder can take a while. Puppies need a consistent schedule with frequent opportunities to eliminate where you want them to. They can't wait for the boss to finish his meeting or the kids to come home from after-school activities. An older dog can "hold it" much more reliably for longer time periods, and usually the shelter has him housebroken before he is adopted.

• Intact Underwear.
  With a chewy puppy, you can count on at least 10 mismatched pairs of socks and a variety of unmentionables rendered to the "rag bag" before he cuts every tooth. Also, you can expect holes in your carpet (along with urine stains), pages missing from books, stuffing exposed from couches, and at least one dead remote control. No matter how well you watch them, it will happen--this is a puppy's job! An older dog can usually have the run of the house without destroying it.

• A Good Night's Sleep.
   Forget the alarm clocks and hot water bottles, a puppy can be very demanding at 2am and 4am and 6am. He misses his littermates, and that stuffed animal will not make a puppy pile with him. If you have children, you've been there and done that. How about a little peace and quiet? How about an older shelter dog?

• Finish the Newspaper.
   With a puppy running amok in your house, do you think you will be able to relax when you get home from work? Do you think your kids will really feed him, clean up the messes, take him for a walk in the pouring rain every hour to get him housetrained? With an adult dog, it will only be the kids running amok, because your dog will be sitting calmly next to you, while your workday stress flows away and your blood pressure lowers as you pet him.

• What You See Is What You Get.
  How big will that puppy be? What kind of temperament will he have? Will he be easily trained? Will his personality be what you were hoping for? How active will he be? When adopting an older dog from a shelter, all of those questions are easily answered. You can pick large or small, active or couch potato, goofy or brilliant, sweet or sassy. The shelter and its foster homes can guide you to pick the right match.

• Unscarred Children (and Adults).
  When the puppy isn't teething on your possessions, he will be teething on your children and you. Parents are sometimes too emotional to see the difference between a healthy playful puppy nip and a bite that indicates a hostile intent, but a growing puppy is going to put everything from food to clothes to hands in their mouths, and as they get older and bigger it definitely hurts (and will get worse, if they aren't being corrected properly.)

• Matchmaker Make Me a Match.
  Puppy love is often no more than an attachment to a look or a color. It is not much of a basis on which to make a decision that will hopefully last 15+ years. While that puppy may have been the cutest of the litter; he may grow up to be superactive (when what you wanted was a couch buddy); she may be a couch princess (when what you wanted was a tireless hiking companion); he may want to spend every waking moment in the water (while you're a landlubber); or she may want to be an only child (while you are intending to have kids or more animals). Pet mis-matches are one of the top reasons animal shelters get animals surrendered.

• Instant Companion.
  With an older dog, you automatically have a buddy that can go everywhere and do everything with you NOW. There's no waiting for a puppy to grow up (and then hope he will like to do what you enjoy). You will have been able to select the most compatible dog: one that travels well; one that loves to play with your friends' dogs; one with excellent house manners that you can take to your parents' new home with the new carpet and the new couch. You can come home after a long day's work and spend your time on a relaxing walk, ride or swim with your new best friend (rather than cleaning up after a small puppy.)

• Bond.
   Dogs who have been uprooted from their happy homes or have not had the best start in life are more likely to bond very completely and deeply with their new people. Those who have lost their families through death, divorce or lifestyle change go through a terrible mourning process. But, once attached to a new loving family, they seem to want to please as much as possible to make sure they are never homeless again. Those dogs that are just learning about the good life and good people seem to bond even deeper. They know what life on the streets, life on the end of a chain, or worse, is all about, and they revel and blossom in a nurturing, loving environment. Most shelters make exceptionally affectionate and attentive pets and extremely loyal companions.

Unfortunately, many folks think dogs that end up in shelters are all genetically and behaviorally inferior. But, it is not uncommon for shelters to get pure-breeds that have either outlived their usefulness or their novelty with impulsive owners who considered their dog a possession rather than a friend or member of the family, or simply did not really consider the time, effort and expense needed to be a dog owner. Not all breeders will accept "returns", so choices for giving up dogs can be limited to animal welfare organizations, such as shelters, or the owners trying to place their own dogs.

Choosing a shelter dog over a purchased pup will not solve the pet overpopulation problem (only responsible pet owners and breeders can do that), but it does give many of them a chance they otherwise would not have. But, beyond doing a "good deed", adopting a shelter dog can be the best decision and addition to the family you ever made.

PREPARATIONS FOR BRINGING YOUR NEW DOG HOME

Being prepared for the new arrival is an essential step towards having a happy and healthy companion. Once you know where and when you will be getting your dog, organize the final details to welcome in the new addition. Make sure you have read up on dog care and know what you'll need to do once Fido arrives at his new home. Do you have any other pets? You need to make sure that they get will along with the new addition, and have up to date vaccinations.

NECESSARY SUPPLIES

It is very important that you have the necessary supplies to care for a dog, including:

• A plastic kennel crate large enough to fit the dog at his adult size

• Soft, clean, washable bedding

• A dog safe ball or other toy

• A training collar which will fit the dog at his current size

• A flat buckle collar which will fit the dog at this current size

• A nylon leash

• A brush suitable for the dog's hair type

• Ceramic or stainless steel feeding bowls

• Dog food

THE FIRST DAY

When your dog first comes home, he will be a little scared in his new situation. There are new people to get used to, a strange house and new smells. Therefore, it is important to make this time as smooth as possible. Dogs who have been well-socialized will adapt quickly, but it will still take a few days to adjust. As tempting as it may be, don't invite friends over to meet the new pet at first. Although puppies need lots of socialization, give him plenty of space for the first few hours.

When your dog first comes into the house, give him lots of love but don't crowd around...too much attention might intimidate him. Allow him to explore his surroundings. For the time being, don't get angry or try to discipline your dog, even if he steals food or messes on the carpet. As Fido gradually learns the rules of the house, he will find his niche in your family. Until your dog is adapted to his situation, housebroken and obedience trained, someone should try to be with him at all times. If all family members must be out, do your best to have someone bring him along. For puppies, these "field trips" can serve as an excellent means of socialization.

THE FIRST NIGHT

For your new dog, the first night at home can be hard. Before your pet goes to sleep, let him relieve himself, supervised and on a leash. Place the dog's crate in your bedroom or that of a family member and keep the kennel door closed. It is important that your dog sleeps with his owners, as this will help him to become part of the family and feel secure. Puppies may benefit from a clock with a second hand placed in the kennel, and a lukewarm hot water bottle. These items will simulate the company of littermates. Hopefully, your dog's first night at home will be comfortable, quiet and restful.

WHAT ABOUT MY OTHER PETS?

If you have any other pets, you will have to take a few extra precautions:

• Make sure that all your pets have up-to-date vaccinations.

• If other dogs will be living with your latest addition, it is best to introduce them on neutral ground - a place where none of the dogs claim territory. Let them become acquainted before they have to share house and home.

• When introducing a dog to a house with cats or small animals, a puppy will adjust much more easily...older dogs who aren't used to other animals may like to chase or bark at these creatures, which they perceive as prey. Of course, adult dogs who have grown up with cats or small animals will also do well.

• The most important thing to remember when dealing with more than one is pet is to give all animals equal attention. Too often, the excitment of a new puppy is so great that other pets are feel left out. Pets can feel jealous just like people, so give all your animals daily TLC.

THE FIRST VET CHECK-UP

It is important to bring your new dog for a first vet checkup, even if he seems perfectly healthy. If you have not already chosen a family veterinarian, now is the time to find one. Look for a vet who is reputable and close by. Your veterinarian will check for any health problems and in most cases give your pet a vaccination.

WHAT'S IN A NAME?

Have you decided on a name for your dog yet? The first thing a puppy should learn is his name, and owners should start calling him by it as soon as possible and as much as possible.

Many trainers believe that dogs respond best to names with two syllables and an ending sound of "ah" or "O", such "Sarah" or "Fido. Make sure that all family members agree on the name, and that it doesn't sound similar to that of someone else who in the household...if your name is Tasha and your dog's name is Kasha, it will be confusing for both of you!

Use your puppy's name as often as possible. Before he eats, say "Fido, dinner." At night, say "Fido, bedtime." And when it's time for a walk say "Fido, walk." Before long, Fido will know his name and respond when it is used.

Your dog may also learn the names of family members. Once you have lived with Fido for a while, you will be able to say, "go find so and so," and Fido will go to the person you specified. Continue to use Fido's name throughout his life. Unfortunately, it is very difficult to change the name of an adult dog, even if you don't like it!

BEGIN TRAINING

Training should begin soon after your new dog comes home. Even if you are adopting an adult who has already learned obedience, your pet will need to learn the rules of the house. For the first few days avoid giving any heavy discipline if Fido misbehaves. Stronger training will come once your dog learns his place in the family "pack."

It is essential for puppies to be housetrained and to learn the routine and rules of the house. Have your puppy follow you as much as possible. Once vaccinated and able to walk on a leash, take your puppy out on daily walks to busy areas where he can obtain socialization and a chance to make friends. Socialization is a very important part aspect of dog care.

Cat Adoption FAQs

1. Am I ready and willing to commit the next 15 to 20 years of my life feeding, grooming, scooping the litter box and providing medical care for a cat?
    Does everyone in my household feel the same way?
    

2. Am I financially prepared to handle all of the costs involved with maintaining the health of a cat and its lifestyle?
    These costs may include any or all of the following: adoption fee, pet deposit, food, feeding utensils, grooming, litter box(es), toys, a bed, veterinary examinations, testing for diseases such as feline leukemia and feline immunodeficiency virus, and diagnosis and treatment of other medical conditions. These costs may run as much as $200 to $300 or more within the first week after acquiring a cat.
    

3. Are there any lifestyle altering events in my foreseeable future that might affect my ability to care for a cat?
    A marriage, a divorce, a new baby, a move, caring for an elderly family member, job uncertainty, etc. Have I thought about what might happen to the cat should something unexpected happen in my life?
    

4. Am I ready to assume the daily responsibilities of caring for a cat?
    All cats require daily care, such as litter box cleaning, feeding and exercise through play. One adult in the household should be designated as the primary caretaker to avoid the needs of the cat being lost in the shuffle of busy schedules.
    

5. Is my residence equipped to handle a cat?
   Have I gotten permission from my landlord to have a cat if I rent? Will my cat be an indoor cat only, or will it go outside sometimes? No cat that has been declawed should ever go outdoors since it cannot defend itself.
    

6. Am I willing to spay or neuter my cat?
   It is irresponsible for anyone except serious breeders to allow their cat to have litters of kittens. Even if your cat will only stay inside, it is better for the cat to be sterilized for health, cleanliness, and behavioral reasons as well as to prevent pet overpopulation.
    

7. Will I be traveling frequently?
    Have I considered what I will do with the cat while I am away? Will I hire a pet sitter? Will it go to a boarding kennel? Do I have any idea how much this will cost?
    

8. Do I have at least one hour a day to devote to my cat?
    Although more independent than dogs, cats thrive on companionship. Consider adopting two cats if the cat will be alone during the day. Two provide company for each other and bring more love into your life.
    

9. Am I willing to learn basic cat behavior and training?
    Cats are independent, but understanding their behavior will help you train them to use the litter box and not scratch furniture.
    

10. Do I REALLY want a cat after considering all these responsibilities?!
     If the answer is "yes," then congratulations! Now, go find the cat that is right for you!

ADOPT FROM A SHELTER OR BUY FROM A BREEDER?

It depends on what kind of cat you are looking for. There are many places that sell cats, but keep in mind that your local animal shelter has many great cats to choose from as well. Additionally, you'd be saving a life in the process!

Local Animal Shelters

Local animal shelters are an excellent place to find cats and kittens. During the height of "kitten season," which begins roughly in March and April and lasts until late October, there is usually a huge variety of kittens within shelters. Unfortunately, this is due to the fact that people fail to take responsibility for spaying and neutering their cats and then do not take responsibility for their offspring. Nevertheless, you can find just about any type or color of kitten you want at some time during kitten season at a shelter.

There are several different reasons why adult cats commonly end up in shelters:

• A new member in the household has allergies. This happens most often with a new baby or a marriage.

• The owner moves to an apartment or other situation where he is unable to have a cat. This often happens with elderly people moving into nursing homes.

• The owner dies and there is no place for the cat to go. This happens more than you think.

• People bring in strays that have lingered around their homes. Usually, if these cats are gentle enough for someone to catch them and bring them in, they have most likely been someone's pet that has gotten lost. They make good adoptive pets because they are anxious to bond with a new owner.

• Occasionally, cats are relinquished to shelters because of "behavioral problems" which are almost exclusively described as urinating in inappropriate places. This problem can almost always be traced back to a medical condition or an emotional upheaval of some kind within the household (See Caring for Cats with Litter Box Problems) and can therefore be corrected with treatment. These cats often turn out to be very good pets.

Pet Stores

Kittens that come from pet shops may have many problems - breeders who supply stores are often indiscriminate, resulting in more frequent genetic abnormalities than properly bred kittens. The pet store environment is very stressful for young kittens who need lots of gentle interaction with humans and a safe, quiet space in which to act out their natural curiosity. Although it may be convenient to be able to buy pet supplies at the same time, there is truly no legitimate reason to buy from a pet store.

A new kind of "pet store" that is becoming popular, however, are the chains that are actually enabling animal shelters to adopt out animals "through" the store itself. These programs provide additional exposure and opportunities for the local shelter and are a wonderful example of constructive partnership for the benefit of our animals.

PetSmart is an example of one of these stores in the Amarillo area. They have a special area of the store called the "Luv-a-Pet" Center that is designated for adopting animals. Cats and kittens are kept in spacious cages in a special room so that people may adopt them during regular business hours. The Amarillo SPCA and the Pet Sterilization Program of the Panhandle regularly adopt cats out this way. The Amarillo Panhandle Humane Society takes both dogs and cats to be adopted on Saturday afternoons.

Breeders

If you want to buy a purebred cat or kitten, look for a good, responsible breeder. Visit a local cat show and speak with breeders. Contact a veterinarian and ask for references. Inquire as to whether any of the vet's clients own cats of the breed you are looking for, which breeder they came from, and if they are happy with their pet. Buy a magazine such as Cat Fancy and look for ads which seem reputable and are posted by breeders in your area.

At this point you can call some of the breeders you have chosen, and ask if you can arrange to visit the premises. Inquire about kitten availability and price, but don't use this as the sole reason for choosing a pet from that breeder.

Are the breeders happy to let you see the kittens or do they seem reluctant to show you their animals? Take a good look at the facilities where the litter was raised. Note cleanliness and the health and temperament of other cats in the facility. Is the breeder proud to show off her cats?

Ask questions about the health of the animals. Have the kittens received their vaccinations? What have they been weaned on? Ask to meet the mother, and if possible, the father of the kittens. If there are no litters available, look at the cats that are regularly used for breeding. Observe the parents' temperament, health and appearance. Have the parents been tested against genetic defects common to the breed? Make sure that there is a guarantee to assure that kittens are free from these defects. In the event that a kitten does have hereditary abnormalities, is there a return policy? Will registration papers be provided? Also ask about non-breeding contracts, spay/neuter programs, etc.

Speak with the breeder and ask him or her as many questions as you can. The best breeders should be asking you questions, too, because they will only want the best homes for their kittens. If the breeder seems only interested in selling you a kitten, consider another breeder.

KITTEN OR ADULT CAT?

What kind of cat are you looking for? An active, playful cat that entertains you with its antics? A calm lap cat that would be gentle with elderly people? A cat that won't be frightened by a barking dog?

Kittens

Kittens are full of energy and love to rush and rumble around your house. They are fun to watch and play with, but one needs to be realistic about the demands that a kitten can make. It's a given that they will explore every inch of their new world and mishaps can happen in the process. Therefore, it is wise in the beginning to limit the roaming space of a kitten to a couple of rooms where nothing too valuable can be knocked off the shelf. With your firm voice and compassionate attention, you can soon teach a kitten the "rules of the house." Climbing on shelves and clawing furniture is a no-no. Kittens can learn very quickly and adapt somewhat easier to a new environment than adult cats.

Kittens also require several trips to the vet for a series of vaccinations, tests, and finally, neutering or spaying. It is also difficult to predict what a kitten will turn out to be in terms of looks and personality when it is finally grown. If this is very important to you, perhaps you should consider getting an adult cat.

Adult Cats

Adult cats are already past the stage where they have to explore the entire house from floor to ceiling. They are calmer than kittens but will still check out everything that is going on in the house. An older cat may not be so easily "molded" as a kitten and it might have a few established personality traits, for instance, wanting to be the only cat. However, with enough love and attention, most adult cats will adapt as easily as a kitten.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT CAT OR KITTEN

There are many myths surrounding personality characteristics of cats. Some people believe that males are naturally more affectionate than females. Others believe that females make better cats. The truth is that neither sex is uniformly more affectionate, more intelligent, calmer nor more playful. Each cat is unique in personality regardless of the sex.

However, one important factor that does affect personality and behavior is whether the animal has been sterilized. Unaltered cats of either sex can be difficult to live with. Unneutered males "spray" a foul smelling urine on walls and furniture. If allowed outdoors, they will roam and fight with other cats. A spayed female no longer goes through heat cycles and ends several problems associated with heat, such as confining the females to prevent the approaches of persistent males as well as the irritating howling of a cat in heat. (If you've never lived with a female cat in heat, usually once is enough to convince you that spaying is a worthy investment!) Neutered and spayed cats always make much more pleasant companions.

Consider Choosing Two

If you're thinking about getting a cat or kitten, consider getting two; two littermates, two older cats that have been together for years, etc. They can keep each other company when you're not home and tend to get into less trouble that way!

PREPARATIONS FOR BRINGING YOUR NEW KITTY HOME

Being prepared for the new arrival is an essential step towards having a happy and healthy companion. Once you know where and when you will be getting your cat, organize the final details to welcome the new addition. Make sure you have read up on cat care and know what you'll need to do once Kitty arrives at her home.

Necessary Supplies

It is very important that you have the necessary supplies to care for a cat, including:

• A cat carrier suitable for carrying the cat home and to the vet.

• A litter box, litter scoop and litter

• Cat or kitten food

• Ceramic or stainless steel feeding bowls

• Soft, clean, washable bedding that will make the cat feel comfortable and that she has a place of her own

• A scratching post so that you can train Kitty early on about appropriate scratching places

• Toys - the best kind tend to be the "homemade" kind; wadded up pieces of paper, small cardboard boxes, paper bags (never allow your pet to play with plastic of any kind), thick pieces of string such as shoelaces. Do not allow your kitty to play with yarn - it can be fatal if ingested.

The First Vet Check-up

It's important that you take your cat or kitten to the vet for a first check-up even if he seems perfectly healthy. If you have not already chosen a family veterinarian, now is the time to find one. Look for a vet who is reputable and close by. Your veterinarian will check for any health problems, and in most cases, give your pet a vaccination.

The First Few Days

It is best to confine your cat in one area of the house for the first few days until it becomes familiar with you and the new smells and sounds of its new home. The younger and smaller the kitty, the smaller the area needs to be. A bathroom works well, but the ideal place would be where you intend to permanently place the litter box later on. Make sure there are no cords or wires in which a kitten could become entangled, or other possible dangers in the room, such as access to crawling under a refrigerator.

Set the litter box up in one corner (make sure it is a very shallow box if the kitten is small) and the food and water in an opposite corner. Be sure to provide soft, comfortable bedding for the cat to curl up on. They love this!

Spend as much time with Kitty as possible. Bring it out of the designated room and play with it in other areas of the house where you spend a lot of time. Within a few days, your kitty will feel secure enough to know where its litter box and food and water are. That will become its "home base."

What About My Other Pets

If you have any other pets, you will have to take a few extra precautions. First of all, make sure the other pets are up-to-date on vaccinations.

Introducing a new kitty to a previous cat: Take your new kitty out of its designated room for a few minutes and let your other cat come in and explore the smells. After you've done this one or two times over a two-day period, bring your new kitty in while your other cat is in the room. Observe their reactions to each other. If there is some hostility, separate them while you are gone until you are certain that they get along.

You can modify the length of time and amount of supervision as you see how the two cats react. Sometimes they will look like they are being hostile when they are not. The position of the ears is a clue. If they are standing up or forward when confronting each other, or if they are lying flat back, there is trouble. Continue to supervise them for a while. However, if the fighting stops immediately when one of them cries out, they're okay.

Introducing a new kitty into a household with an elderly animal: The older animal can often feel threatened by a newcomer. Try to minimize the stress it feels by paying extra attention to it. Too often, the excitement of a new kitten in the household is so great that other pets feel left out. Pets can feel jealous, just like people, so give all of your animals daily TLC.

Introducing a new kitty to a puppy: A puppy introduced to a cat will quickly view it as another sort of dog and leave it alone, or more often, want to play with it. The cat will probably view the dog as a nuisance for some time, but will eventually learn to ignore it or even play with it.

Introducing a kitten to an older dog: It will all depend on the dog's temperament. Many dogs are good with cats such as Labs or Newfies, and will present no problems whatsoever. Other dogs with high prey drives may need to be taught to leave the kitten alone. Soon, the kitten will be able to get up out of the dog's reach when it wants to be left alone. Create a place for the kitty to go where the dog can't follow. For example, place a childproof fence in the doorway of a room high enough for the cat to get under but too low for the dog.

According to Humane Society studies, there are some combinations of animals that tend to work well:

• Two kittens

• An older kitten and a puppy

• A pair of mature sterilized animals

• Two cats

• Two dogs

© Copyright Amarillo Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. All rights reserved.